The New Rules of Brilliance: High Jewellery Breaks Free of Its Mold
Bhavatna Prasad
In part 2 of this series, we take a look at the world’s luxury jewellery houses, unleashing a masterclass in bold self-expression, completely redefining the boundaries of haute joaillerie. From Piaget’s vibrant colour palettes and Hermès’ poetic, invisible equestrianism to Vhernier’s sculptural geometry, De Beers’ organic dualities, and Pomellato’s Milanese spirit, these breathtaking new collections prove that high jewellery is no longer just an ornament but a living, breathing art.

PIAGET
Piaget has unveiled Colours of Extravaganza, the vibrant final chapter of its high jewellery trilogy inspired by the free-spirited 1960s and ‘70s. Treating colour as a physical material, this 65-piece collection creatively blends radiant gold with diamonds, sapphires, and expressive ornamental stones like tiger’s eye and opal.
The collection featuring showstopping designs like the Blue Illusions necklace, which took 900 hours to craft from Madagascan sapphire, Paraíba tourmaline, and a rare black opal was crafted at the Maison’s Ateliers de l’Extraordinaire. The convertible Flamboyant Links sautoir timepiece in rose gold and tiger’s eye, and the bold, 1980s-inspired Gems Pop set are the other highlights from the collection.

HERMÈS
Designed by Creative Director Pierre Hardy, Hermès has unveiled its ninth haute bijouterie collection, Into the Horsescape. Taking a metonymical approach to the house’s equestrian heritage, the horse itself remains invisible, yet its spirit is captured in sensual, abstract ways in this 90-piece collection. Every piece contours the body with harmonious movements, transforming utilitarian elements like horse bits, stirrups, and lasso shapes into fluid, contemporary, wearable art.
With materials like deep black jade and Tahitian stones mimicking the lustre of hooves and rose gold paired with brown diamonds channeling the warmth of a horse’s coat, the jewellery evokes a deep sensory realm. This collection transcends traditional forms, turning precious gems and meticulous metalwork into a living, moving presence on the skin.

VHERNIER
Vhernier has unveiled its latest high jewellery collection, a sculptural reimagination of the Maison’s most beloved motifs from 2014, Freccia High Jewellery. The collection relies on the modular repetition of a single triangular element, softening its flat edges into generous, three-dimensional volumes in its exploration of “resolved complexity”. Balancing bold visual proportions with a light, technical wearability that interacts harmoniously with the body, this collection features five suites of necklaces, bracelets, rings, and earrings.
Vhernier’s master artisans utilised mirror-polished white gold, a signature two-prong diamond, and the brand’s pioneering Trasparenze technique to bring these shapes to life. This process layers rock crystals over stones like green and black jade, lapis lazuli, and mother-of-pearl, resulting in rich, shifting colours. The earclips feature an ingenious screw-in mechanism, allowing them to transform effortlessly from studs into dramatic pendant earrings, adding a modern touch of versatility.

DE BEERS
De Beers London’s new Lotus High Jewellery designs featuring a contemporary, four-petal motif of extraordinary pear-shaped diamonds, draws inspiration from the resilient wetlands of Southern Africa. Crafted in Paris, the fluid, openwork collection includes a bracelet, earrings, a ring, and a transformable necklace with a detachable two-carat diamond drop. Offering a sculptural yet lightweight tribute to natural growth and renewal, each piece mimics the rhythmic unfolding of the lotus flower.
With four bold high jewellery additions that celebrate the raw beauty of rough diamonds paired with polished forms, DeBeers London has also expanded its iconic Talisman line. A new cuff, medallion, ring and earrings feature hand-hammered poinçon gold settings that secure the stones without prongs, embracing contrast with unique textures of Southern Africa. By juxtaposing unpolished, warm-hued diamonds with brilliant white cuts, these pieces offer a tactile, contemporary link to the geological origins of the gems.

POMELLATO
Pomellato’s latest collection, Pomellato Stile Libero, is a vibrant 65-piece High Jewellery set celebrating self-expression and Milanese elegance. The collection, defined by three distinct creative chapters: Visionary Colors, Magnetic Gold, and Hypnotic Shadows, draws inspiration from the artistic spirit of Eclecticism. Standout designs showcase Pomellato's signature serti libre gemstone-setting technique, which lets gems settle into fluid, organic compositions, alongside bold, asymmetrical volumes and heritage-inspired chains.
Among the collection's showpieces is the Drops of Paraíba choker, which uses serti libre to drape 21 pear-shaped Paraíba tourmalines like shimmering rain droplets across the collarbone. The Arabesque necklace, which took 1450 hours of labour, reinterprets lace-like floral motifs in rose gold, illuminated by 18 rose-cut diamonds in a stunning display of hand-pierced openwork craftsmanship.
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