For Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri placed the body at the heart of the conversation. Exploring themes of emotional freedom, each piece was designed to respond to the wearer, rather than dictating how they look or move. Strong yet vulnerable, private yet expressive, the Fendi body withdraws from the conventional gender codes and hierarchy to act as a meeting point of masculine and feminine.

Undergarments for men and women acted as the starting point, transforming into interstitial layers through lace, embroidery, and colour that could conceal or reveal. They function as a second skin, allowing emotions to seep through, the idea reinforced by a wardrobe built through contrasts.

Just as bodies interact and find each other, garments mix in different layers, shapes, lengths, and materials, seen through contrasting glossy and matte, light and heavy, and silk and animal print across the collection. Adding a sense of deliberate unpredictability and removing any sense of hierarchy, Chiuri takes dressing gowns onto the streets and brings sharp touches of punk to the wardrobe. 

The setting amplified the collection’s central themes. Inspired by Luciano Fabro’s Cubo di specchi (Mirror Cube), the reflective runway drew the audience into the spectacle, forcing confrontation and turning self-recognition into a shared experience. References to Raffaella Carrà brought in a distinctly Italian spirit of independence, wit and subversion, qualities that also shaped the show’s fearless mixing of bourgeois polish and rebellious energy.  

Ultimately, the Fendi SS27 runway traded a fixed look to opt for a fluid way of dressing. Chiuri proposes clothes as a tool for self-expression, allowing equal space for strength, softness, irony, and desire.