Fashion moves through time, transforming itself and taking on different identities. Matthieu Blazy builds on this idea for Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, centred around Gabrielle Chanel’s evolution and tracing the journey of the house’s iconic silhouettes. 

At the heart of the collection is the idea of freedom and liberation, with Blazy turning the house codes and philosophy into a renewed design language, carving a path into the future. Presented at the Grand Palais, an illuminated runway with bird figures circling a giant glowing moon acted as the backdrop for the collection. 

Opening the runway was a sheer white dress in silk knit, an ensemble inspired by Gabrielle Chanel’s jersey underwear. The dress was paired with Chanel’s own 2.55 bag from the Patrimoine archives. 

The runway then moved to Chanel’s iconic pencil skirt suits, coming in various renditions. From structured shoulders and cropped jackets, to sheer skirts and delicate layers, the silhouettes took to different fabric formations, colourways, and styles. The skirt rested low on the hips with tank tops, long-line vests, and close-cut tailoring offering an elongated look. 

Clashing patterns appeared in quick flashes, bringing a bold, maximalist aesthetic to the runway, restrained still. Across the suits, Blazy also brought in masculine tailoring details through raw-edged gilets, oversized blazers, and vests, a nod to Chanel’s own exploration of men’s tailoring for women. 

Dresses began with drop-waisted silhouettes inspired by the 1920s before moving to more formal gowns like those from the 1930s. Sequined, knitted, and beaded, they were worn with the ease of a T-shirt. Drawing inspiration from the changing skies, dresses also took a more free-flowing silhouette with delicate clouds and midnight constellations.

The runway’s most exciting addition came through Matthieu Blazy’s invention of the “smoked tweed”, a stretch fabric that reads like a tweed but moves like activewear. Setting a clear direction for the future, Blazy’s new take builds on Chanel’s liberating philosophy while carrying the same aesthetic finish of the house’s iconic tweed. 

From the familiar flap bags to new cloud bags with watch-chain locks and the birdcage minaudiere with its escaped birds, accessories completed the collection with a playful yet profound touch. Footwear also followed the same suit with two-toned pumps, silver sandals, and metallic toe detailing. 

Blazy notes that it is not a historical collection but a collection about Chanel’s layered stories. “Ultimately, Chanel took off, and each step she took led to her being free, like a bird," he said.