Simon Porte Jacquemus has always worn nostalgia and heritage on his sleeve, and for his Fall/Winter 2026 show, he returns to them with a deeper, more personal focus. Titled Le Palmier, the show drew its theme from the palm-tree hairstyle of the 1980s, once considered a prerequisite for entry into Paris’s chicest parties.

It was therefore fitting that the presentation was held at the Picasso Museum, a symbolic homecoming after his 2023 presentation at the same venue, this time reimagined as a fancy party.

Drawing on memories from his early years as a young designer in Paris, the show resulted in a collection that felt both whimsical and nonchalant, with a “silly chic” party energy rather than a minimalist luxury aesthetic.

The collection moved fluidly between eras, leaning into the sensuality of the 1990s and the satirical humour of 1980s French cinema. Meanwhile, the silhouettes embraced sculptural 1950s couture, giving the collection a sense of nostalgia while feeling modern.

The womenswear fused elegance with drama, combining rounded shoulders with cinched tulip-shaped waists and slinky 1990s-inspired lines. The result was a series of fitted yet graphic silhouettes that translated sharply on camera. Repeating geometric motifs, from circular hats to bias-cut skirts and the structural “fish” and “calisson” forms shaping coats, gave the collection a strong, almost cartoon-like outline.

Jacquemus’s signature stripes and polka dots returned in playful new style, translated into curving grosgrain ribbons and confetti-like motifs. Embellishments extended to trompe‑l’œil bird motifs and black rocaille “caviar” beading on tuxedos, reinforcing a tactile, almost decorative-arts approach to evening wear. Of course, many of the models in the show sported the 80’s palm-tree hairstyle, which gave the collection a retro spirit.

Meanwhile, the menswear collection offered nonchalance with leather overcoats and sharply tailored evening tuxedos, subtly embellished with black rocaille caviar beading.

With Le Palmier, the show was a poignant reminder of the creative ingenuity that has shaped the Jacquemus universe since its beginning. More than a return to memories of Paris, it proved how personal stories often translate into the most powerful fashion statements. With his grandmother and newly named ambassador, Liline Jacquemus, seated in the front row, the moment felt deeply intimate, signalling a confident evolution into a new, more assured chapter for the house.