NYFW 2026 Opens with a Return to Wearable Fashion
Lisa Amnegard
Our roundup of the standout moments from day one of New York Fashion Week
And just like that, day one of New York Fashion Week wrapped. The opening schedule brought together L’Agence, Coach and Proenza Schouler’s debut show, setting the tone for the week ahead. If the first day proved anything, it was a clear preference for wearable fashion over avant-garde theatrics.
Designers leaned into nostalgia, simplicity and ease, favouring practical silhouettes with subtle youthful touches rather than overtly opulent dressing.
Here are the highlights from Day 1.


Coach
Creative Director Stuart Vevers presented a fresh, youth-driven collection for Coach’s Autumn/Winter 26 collection, balancing edgy energy with unmistakable American heritage.
Showcased at New York’s historic Cunard Building, the collection featured subtle back-to-school energy, reimagined through a rebellious lens, blended sharp 1940s tailoring with 1970s-inspired American sportswear.
On the runway, the outfits moved from monochrome tones that transitioned into “Technicolour” optimism, grounding its designs in a fusion of decades. Key looks featured retro-styled blazers, satin high-neck dresses and heavy grunge plaids paired with frayed Bermuda shorts. A capsule of items, including the new Kisslock Frame Bag 30 and varsity jackets, was added to the varsity theme but with a modern touch.
On the footwear front, the Soho Sneaker comes in bold finishes, while accessories remained refined, including subtle pendants and delicate celestial brooches.
The result was a collection felt less about fantasy and more about self-expression, further cementing the brand’s youthful identity and its reputation as a Gen Z favourite.

Tory Burch
Tory Burch revisited classic wardrobe staples grounded in history and utility for its Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, balancing their structure with softness and femininity.
Showcased at Sotheby’s The Breuer, the collection unfolded in a muted palette that made quie nods to the 1970s. Models donned low-waisted silhouettes and belted tailoring, defined by fluid lines and subtly retro proportions.
Standout pieces included sharply tailored jackets, leather skirts, fine knit sweaters in soft colours along with shimmering long silk dresses. Accessories added bohemian touches such as elongated pendant earrings and necklaces coupled with polished leather handbags finished with understated detailing.
The collection was an ode to the brands ethos, which has long focused on all the dynamic sides of a woman, and the various facets of their style.


Collina Strada
Collina Strada’s Autumn/Winter 2026 collection unfolded as a modern study in romance, one grounded in the brand’s commitment to sustainability and its signature whimsical, maximalist aesthetic.
The runway, held above Chelsea Market, presented a series of distinct looks centred on exaggeration, sculptural shapes and playful proportions. Hair played a defining role in the overall mood, with voluminous, bushy updos and deliberately undone styles that felt effortlessly nonchalant, almost as if models had just woken up.
Highlights included puffed shoulders, relaxed tailored trousers and fluid silk dresses finished with delicate lace detailing. Pattern featured prominently, with checkerboard and geometric motifs adding visual contrast. Accessories echoed the collection’s nostalgic undertones, from vintage-inspired brooches to footwear trimmed with soft lace accents.
The result was a relaxed yet feminine take on romance, one that was expressive, imperfect and confident.
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