Erdem revisited past muses from Queen Elizabeth to Deborah Devonshire, while Simone Rocha reworked her signature pearls and ribbons.

As London Fashion Week draws to a close following Burberry’s show later today, the mood this season has been clear: bigger, bolder and more confident.

With the British capital continuing its push to reassert itself as a leading fashion capital for creative talent, both established houses and emerging designers have presented their autumn/winter collections with renewed energy.

Here are some of the standout moments from the weekend’s shows.

Erdem 

Canadian-born designer Erdem Moralıoğlu marked the 20th anniversary of his label with its autumn/winter 2026 show, reaffirming the romantic, historically infused vision that has defined Erdem for two decades.

Staged at Tate Britain, London’s museum dedicated to British art, the collection was titled Impossible Conversations. The show unfolded as a layered tapestry of references, drawing on the cultural and aristocratic figures who have shaped past Erdem collections.

A scrapbook placed on each seat featured images of former muses, from Maria Callas in Medea to Queen Elizabeth and Deborah, Duchess of Devonshire. The collection acted as a tribute to the imagined dialogues Moralıoğlu has held with these women over the years, weaving their presence into the fabric of his designs.

There were echoes of earlier Erdem silhouettes throughout, though they were reworked with fresh ideas. Embroidered canvas bodices introduced a subtle edge, while crystal-embellished opera coats emerged from a collaboration with Barbour, complete with the heritage brand’s logo stitched onto the sleeves.

Texture played a central role, with fringed knitwear, tweed tailoring featuring exposed linings and structured outerwear rounding out the collection. The unexpected twists gently challenged Erdem’s reputation as London’s ultimate romantic, demonstrating how Moralıoğlu continues to expand his design vocabulary while remaining true to his distinctive vision.

Paul Costelloe

William Costelloe presented his first runway show for the brand this season, delivering an autumn/winter collection in tribute to his late father, Paul Costelloe, who died in November aged 80.

The collection centred on a rich, autumnal palette, with chocolate brown emerging as a key shade, alongside earthy beiges and crisp whites. Traditional Irish textiles, long associated with the brand’s identity, appeared throughout the collection. Broad shoulders, bold detailing and strong, structured silhouettes echoed the founder’s signature style, now reinterpreted under William’s direction.

The looks featured long coats and dresses with sculpted shoulders, precisely tailored trouser suits and voluminous blouses. Tweed, check and knitwear also played a key role, alongside prints developed during the final collaboration between father and son before William stepped into the role of creative director.

In terms of accessories, William focused on oversized handbags and long, chunky scarves to complete the outfits, giving the overall collection texture and weight. 

While the name above the door remains the same, the show made clear that a new chapter has begun for the Paul Costelloe brand. 

Simone Rocha 

Simone Rocha presented her autumn/winter collection at Alexandra Palace Theatre in north London, bringing her familiar blend of romance and edge to the runway, along with a surprise collaboration with Adidas Originals.

The show centred on Irish heritage and the idea of clothing that lasts across generations. It drew on the myth of Tír na nÓg, mixed equestrian references with urban elements, and paid tribute to the Yeats sisters, with a continued focus on craftsmanship and femininity.

Models wore voluminous gowns with deliberately uneven shapes, tied with ribbons and finished with metal details. Thick Aran knits and oversized shearling coats were layered over delicate lace and tulle, creating a contrast between heavy and light fabrics. A red rosette motif, inspired by traditional Irish horse fairs, appeared throughout on dresses, belts and coats.

The colour palette moved towards deeper, earthier tones, including dark reds and shades inspired by peat and the Irish countryside.

The standout moment was the Simone Rocha x Adidas collaboration, which saw her reinterpret the brand’s three stripes through her own aesthetic. It marked her first step into sportswear, a move she said felt natural, recalling how she once paired Adidas trainers with vintage tutus as a teenager.

AGRO Studio 

London-based fashion brand AGRO studio stood out as one of the strongest highlights of the week. 

The design house, which is run by duo Angus Cockram and George Oxby, was displaying its first ready-to-wear collection, building on a reputation for dressing A-list names including Beyoncé, Raye and Sabrina Carpenter.

Titled Prophet, the collection mixed the label’s dramatic style with more wearable pieces. Ball gowns, which have become a signature for the brand, appeared alongside classic British school shirts. Leather was combined with soft tulle, while shearling and corsetry were layered together. Hand-beaded details added decoration, but the clothes still felt modern and practical.

The result was a refreshing mix of romance and rebellion, a reflection of both London’s heritage and the brand’s forward-looking approach to couture.