From Saint Laurent’s Sharp Tailoring to Mulier’s Farewell: Inside Paris FW26
Paris Fashion Week FW26/27 felt charged with emotion, power and quiet shifts behind the scenes. Some collections celebrated the strength of house codes, while others hinted at transitions that may shape the next chapter of fashion. Across the week, designers explored different ideas of modern elegance, from sculptural intimacy to sharp tailoring and restrained luxury.

At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello continued refining his signature language of precision and creativity. The collection leaned into the house’s unmistakable confidence. Strong shoulders, narrow silhouettes and sharply cut coats grounded the runway. Yet there was softness too, with fluid fabrics, bare skin and subtle draping that balanced the strict tailoring. Vaccarello’s vision felt controlled but seductive, a reminder of Saint Laurent’s enduring idea of empowered femininity.

One of the most emotional moments of the week came at Alaïa, where Pieter Mulier presented what was announced as his final collection for the house. Known for honoring the sculptural legacy of Azzedine Alaïa, Mulier closed his chapter with pieces that celebrated the body through precise curves, second skin knits and elegant draping. The atmosphere in the room reflected the significance of the moment. Among those attending were Chanel creative director Mathieu Blazy and Raf Simons, both longtime admirers of Mulier’s work. The collection felt intimate and respectful, a quiet tribute to Alaïa’s heritage and to Mulier’s thoughtful stewardship.

At Tom Ford, glamour returned with polished intensity. The runway delivered sleek eveningwear, glossy textures and impeccably tailored suits, reinforcing the brand’s long-standing reputation for confident sophistication. It was less about excess and more about controlled allure.
Meanwhile, The Row once again proved the power of restraint. Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen presented elongated coats, generous tailoring and luxurious fabrics in muted tones. The silhouettes were calm and purposeful, offering a sense of quiet luxury that contrasted with the louder moments of the week.
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