Burberry closes London Fashion Week with an ode to the capital 

In keeping with tradition, Burberry brought London Fashion Week to a close yesterday with its Autumn/Winter 2026 runway show, an event that served as both an ode to London and a clear statement from its creative director, Daniel Lee.

After focusing on England’s rural countryside and free-spirited festival culture in his previous two collections, Lee turned this season to the grit and glamour of the capital.

The show was staged on the banks of the Thames at Old Billingsgate, once the largest fish market in the world, marking a return to the city. A scaffolding-wrapped Tower Bridge formed part of the set, while resin “puddles” on the runway recreated the look of rain-slicked streets. Guests, including Stellan Skarsgård, Lily-Rose Depp and footballer Curtis Jones, posed by the real bridge nearby, reinforcing the London theme.

Described as “pure street currency,” the collection aimed to capture a familiar London nightlife scene. Lee cited influences ranging from Hackney carriages and night buses to the city’s layered nightlife. The mood felt more sophisticated and dressier than in previous seasons, moving toward sleeker, darker silhouettes and presenting the house’s heritage codes through a sharper, more youthful lens. Romeo Beckham and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley were among those walking the runway, their reflections visible in the resin puddles on the dark rubber floor.

At the heart of the show was Burberry’s signature trench coat. Lee reworked it in multiple forms, from softened versions with ruffled collars to technical taffeta styles and bold plaid designs. Some swept the floor, while outerwear also included a check shearling jacket and a deep plum overcoat with oversized fur lapels.

The collection embraced rich, textured materials, including woven leathers and several variations of shearling, alongside ultra-smooth leather used for jumpsuits, pleated skirts, sweeping coats and fur-trimmed jerkins. Cut in fluid, almost languid silhouettes, the varied textures gave many of the looks a subtle sensuality. Chocolate-brown leather boots reinforced the equestrian undertones, and a balance between softness and structure ran throughout the line-up.

Overall, the collection felt like a tribute to the restless energy of stepping out in London, where style is shaped as much by spontaneity as by tradition. Lee’s collection spoke to that unpredictability, anchored, fittingly, by the house’s most quintessential piece, the trench coat, but in a contemporary and more assured way.