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    Revisiting Jacquemus’ most unforgettable runway shows of all time

    Vama Kothari

    We explore nine of Jacquemus' most iconic runway shows, journeying from the sun-drenched lavender fields of Provence to the majestic waterways of Versailles...

    The French brand Jacquemus is loved by many, and for various reasons. Designer Simon Porte Jacquemus has a sense of humour and juxtaposition that he manages to encapture not only in his campaigns, but somehow also in his creations. No, the Le Chiquito does not accommodate more than lip gloss, and yes the Les Doubles sandals are actually two-shoes-in-one. 

    Simon can often think it wise to air a giant Le Bambino bag in the middle of London’s busy streets, and have his models sport new boxers by jumping from a heightened diving board into an inflatable kids pool in the middle of a paddy field. Olympics inspired, you see? You might adore his creative audacity or dismiss it as closet clutter. Yet, Jacquemus' knack for viral moments has seamlessly fused fashion with fantasy, transforming his shows into deeply personal sagas reminiscent of his French childhood and his profound affection for his grandmother.

    What really captures our fancy isn’t just his ability to turn the mundane into the must-have with that undeniable French élan but also his approach to creative direction — bold, yet somehow beautifully simple. Join us as we walk through some of Simon’s most captivating runway renditions that showcase the heart and soul of Jacquemus, where the magic of his mind meets the fabric of reality.

    Le Coup de Soleil, Spring/Summer 2020

    Amidst the picturesque lavender fields of Valensole, Jacquemus' 10th anniversary show, "Le Coup de Soleil," was a poetic marriage of nature and haute couture. The striking hot pink runway, slicing through a sea of lavender, offered a dreamy yet dramatic canvas for the vibrant collection, echoing the nostalgia and warmth of a Provençal summer​.

    Le Splash, Spring/Summer 2022 

    Jacquemus' "Le Splash" for Spring/Summer 2022 was a maritime ode played out on the shores of Hawaii. The collection's runway, painted a deep cobalt blue, contrasted dramatically with the pale, sunlit sand—a visual coup that mirrored the clear summer skies meeting the expansive ocean. This bold backdrop served as the perfect canvas for the collection's fluid, airy pieces, which fluttered with the ease of sea breezes. More than just visually arresting, "Le Splash" resonated as a celebration of youthful zest, leaving a lasting impression as a hallmark of innovative runway artistry.

    Le ChouChou, Fall/Winter 2023

    The Jacquemus Fall/Winter 2023 presentation, christened "Le ChouChou," was a display of regal elegance at the historic Palace of Versailles. Within this bastion of French opulence, the runway transcended the ordinary, stretching across the palace’s iconic Grand Canal. Here, models glided by, their reflections mingling with those of onlookers in delicately arrayed boats. The collection — a sophisticated interplay of tailored femininity and gentle drapery for both women's and men's attire — evoked the sartorial spirit of Marie Antoinette, reimagined for the contemporary wearer.

    L'Amour, Spring/Summer 2021

    In an era marked by distance, Jacquemus' "L'Amour" collection embraced simplicity and intimacy, set against the serene backdrop of a wheat field just outside Paris. This show, with its limited, socially-distanced audience, felt like a whisper of romance and resilience, a testament to love in the time of a pandemic​.

    Le Papier, Fall/Winter 2022

    Set in the surreal salt marshes of Aigues-Mortes, "Le Papier" was a minimalist marvel. The salt-covered runway reflected the collection's raw, pared-down aesthetic, creating an ethereal contrast between earthy textures and the fluidity of the designs​.

    Les Santons de Provence, Spring/Summer 2017

    Drawing deeply from his roots, Jacquemus' homage to Provence with "Les Santons de Provence" was a scenic celebration of his heritage. The runway stretched across an aerial bridge in Marseille, offering panoramic views that perfectly complemented the collection's provincial charm and contemporary flair​.

    La Collectionneuse, Fall/Winter 2019

    The show that introduced the world to the tiny yet monumental 'Le Chiquito' bag, this collection was a vibrant exploration of scale and form. Held in Paris, it was both a critical and commercial success, sparking trends that dominated fashion discourse worldwide​.

    La Reconstruction, Fall/Winter 2016

    An introspective show held in a stark Parisian warehouse, "Le Nez Rouge" delved into Jacquemus' personal grief with poignant theatricality. The use of a giant red fabric ball moving across the runway was a metaphor-rich narrative of his emotional journey​.

    Le Raphia, Spring/Summer 2023

    In the minimalist setting of Le Bourget, "Le Raphia" was an ode to Jacquemus' dedication to artisanal craftsmanship. The collection, woven with raffia, brought a tactile richness to the runway, harmonising beautifully with the airy, curtain-lined space​.

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