After years of focused growth in Asia, Boucheron, the esteemed French jewellery Maison, is turning its attention to the American market. But what drives this strategic shift, and why now?

In this exclusive interview, General Director Hélène Poulit-Duquesne shares the rationale behind Boucheron’s expansion into one of the world’s most competitive luxury markets. With increasing interest from American clients and the press, the Maison sees this as the right moment to bring its heritage of innovation, craftsmanship, and artistry to the U.S. Poulit-Duquesne outlines Boucheron’s approach to capturing the attention of discerning American consumers through key boutique openings and high-profile collaborations.

What motivated Boucheron to expand into the U.S. market now, after focusing on Asia for the past decade?

We have always proceeded in stages, and successfully so; the remarkable development of the Maison today bears witness to this approach. The United States represents a highly competitive and mature jewellery market, dominated by local giants, making it a challenging landscape for new entrants. We needed to be fully prepared before entering this market. Now is the right time because, even with zero media investment, we have already noticed interest in our High Jewellery creations from American clients, as well as from American press titles and celebrities during the award seasons.

Our positioning is based on three values that resonate with the American audience. Firstly, innovation has been in our DNA from the beginning. The history of Boucheron is a succession of “firsts.” Boucheron was the first jeweller to engrave what its contemporaries had never before dared to engrave: the diamond. The first to invent a necklace with no clasp, but rather a spring blade, in 1879. In 1893, Frédéric Boucheron was the first great contemporary jeweller to open a boutique on Place Vendôme.

For Claire Doisne - the creative director of the brand - and I, it is our duty to perpetuate what was initiated by Frédéric Boucheron. I give Claire my absolute trust to propose Carte Blanche High Jewellery collections each year. For us, innovation is a tool to convey emotions, with a strong artistic purpose: to question the meaning of preciousness. Secondly, we focus on self-expression. While other jewellers focus on products and stones, we offer creations centred on the individual. Boucheron's creations are made to express each person's uniqueness. Finally, we embody optimism. We have a positive and conquering spirit, with a desire to push the boundaries of a traditional sector and to 'light the way'. We believe we must always look at the bright side of the world. This optimism is inherent to a jeweller's mission, which is to celebrate life's happiest moments.

How do you see the American market’s appetite for high jewellery differing from other regions, like Europe and the Middle East?

High Jewellery in the United States is experiencing growth, driven by two dynamics. The first is artistic, focusing on art and collection pieces, as Generation Z, the new sales driver, is looking for creative pieces. The second is heritage-driven, with traditional customers favouring internationally recognised brands for investment purposes. 

At Boucheron, we have a High Jewellery strategy precisely with these two offers. Our Histoire de Style collections, launched in January, revisit our heritage through a contemporary lens, while our Carte Blanche collections, launched in July, focus on innovation and creativity, with a strong creative purpose. We are committed to pushing the boundaries of our industry and offering a unique vision of High Jewellery. Our creations are emotional, living, and designed to be worn, far from the safe.

In September, we marked a significant milestone by presenting an entire High Jewellery collection in the US for the first time. We unveiled our new Carte Blanche collection, Or Bleu, to the American market.

Could you tell us more about the strategic significance of opening your first U.S. boutique on Madison Avenue?

Madison Avenue perfectly aligns with our positioning as an exclusive High Jewellery Maison. We have been anticipating this address for a long time, and when the opportunity arose, we didn't hesitate to seize it. Madison Avenue has always been a dynamic retail landscape, even before the Covid-19 pandemic. In the post-Covid era, Madison has regained strength as a destination for exclusive and quieter experiences, in contrast to the hectic golden mile on Fifth Avenue with its mass traffic and numerous tourists.

Following this opening in New York, we are continuing our expansion across key cities in the United States. We plan to open in Las Vegas at the Fontainebleau Mall in December 2024, followed by locations on Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles and in Bal Harbour, Miami, both in 2025. Each store will carry the DNA of Boucheron boutiques while also incorporating local design elements. All stores will offer the full range of Boucheron collections, including High Jewellery, Fine Jewellery, and our iconic pieces.

We are also committed to preserving our existing wholesale network, which consists of nine locations.

What are the key challenges you anticipate in entering such a competitive market as the United States?

The United States represents a strong and mature jewellery market that requires time to enter effectively. Any brand looking to establish itself in this market needs to be prepared to invest for the long term. One of the key challenges in the US market is the presence of very strong local players who have established deep roots and loyal customer bases. Additionally, it's important to recognise that the US is a vast market with many different regions, each with its own unique characteristics and consumer preferences. This diversity requires a nuanced and adaptable approach to successfully navigate the market.

Boucheron has a strong historical connection with American families and Hollywood icons. How do you plan to continue fostering these ties in modern times?

We are already actively fostering ties with the American market. In July 2024, American clients ranked second among our top nationalities for High Jewellery purchases.

We have observed that these clients are very attached to French craftsmanship and have been coming to Place Vendôme to discover Claire's collections in person. Recognising this strong interest and demand, we've decided to take the next step. Now, instead of waiting for them to come to us, we are bringing Boucheron directly to the American market.

Boucheron’s DNA is deeply rooted in innovation. How does the Quatre 5D memory ring embody this innovative spirit for the American audience?

Everything started with an innovation called 5D memory, which encodes any kind of data for billions of years in silica glass. This technology is not just cutting-edge; it's also poetic. Just like jewellery, it offers a form of eternity, allowing us to encapsulate the most precious things for billions of years.

After discovering this technology, we asked ourselves, « What do we want to keep forever? » Following our Or Bleu Carte Blanche collection, which highlighted the preciousness of water, Claire chose to encapsulate a childhood memory: the sound of ocean waves. She grew up in the south of France, in the Landes region.

To bring her vision to life, we collaborated with IRCAM, the French Institute for Acoustic and Music Research and Coordination, which is dedicated to musical creation and scientific research. Together, we developed this unique sound artwork.

As 2024 marks the 20th anniversary of our Quatre collection, it was an obvious choice to incorporate this innovative capsule into the design of the Quatre ring.

We see this innovative capsule as a gift for future generations. I'm convinced that the sound of water is something that will still be precious in 5 billion years.

You’ve mentioned that “optimism is a duty” at Boucheron. How do you weave this philosophy into your new collections, especially in a market like the U.S.?

I believe our optimism is reflected in the way we consistently push the boundaries of a traditional industry. Our brand positioning is unique in that we are constantly exploring new techniques, materials, and designs. However, we don't pursue innovation for its own sake. Each of our collections is designed to convey a meaningful message.

I think our most optimistic collection to date was the More is More Carte Blanche collection in 2023. It was created during the second lockdown of the Covid-19 pandemic in Europe. Claire's intention was to offer joy during this challenging time. The collection featured XXL sizes, ultra-light materials, and optical illusions, all designed to uplift and inspire.

How does Boucheron balance its 166-year heritage with the need to innovate in today’s fast-evolving luxury landscape?

When I joined the Maison, we were producing one high-jewellery collection per year. I asked myself how we could reach our commercial objectives while still giving space for Claire's creativity.

I decided to transform our approach by introducing two distinct High Jewelry collections each year. The first, Histoire de Style, is unveiled in January. For this collection, Claire draws her inspiration from our archives and reinterprets classic designs with a twist of modernity. This collection has a clear commercial objective, appealing to traditional clients who are attracted to classic designs.

The second collection, Carte Blanche, is presented in July. This collection is all about pushing boundaries. I place complete trust in Claire and her vision, giving her ultimate freedom to create. We believe that creativity and innovation are the tools that enable us to transform dreams into reality. This collection tends to attract clients who appreciate contemporary art.

Both collections represent important milestones for Boucheron. Together, they reflect our rich heritage and craftsmanship, as well as our commitment to creativity and innovation.

With the success in Asia, particularly China, what lessons have you learned that you plan to apply in the U.S. market?

Each region we enter is unique, with its own culture and history that shape the market dynamics. Our experience has taught us that it's crucial to approach each new market with a tailored strategy. The most significant lesson we can take from our entry into the Chinese market is the importance of humility. When we first arrived in China, we weren't an established or expected presence. It required a great deal of tenacity to explain who we are as a brand and to articulate our positioning effectively. This experience reinforced our understanding that when entering a new market, it's essential to arrive with conviction and optimism about your brand and offerings. However, equally important is maintaining a great deal of humility. You must be prepared to listen, learn, and adapt to the unique characteristics and preferences of the local market.

What role do cultural collaborations and events, like the Golden Globes and Met Gala, play in Boucheron’s brand strategy in the U.S.?

Even before opening a boutique in New York, Boucheron's communication strategy in the US was focused on visibility through public relations and celebrity endorsements. We invested in dressing celebrities for red-carpet events, which helped us generate massive press coverage. This strategy allowed us to emerge in the American market despite not having a physical presence. Despite lower media investment compared to some competitors, Boucheron consistently ranked in the top 10 for press coverage (print) in 2020, 2021, and 2022. This achievement demonstrates the effectiveness of our approach. Our strategy also involved being chosen by American celebrities for French events. Furthermore, Boucheron began to make its mark on major stages during the U.S. awards season. 

Could you share more about the immersive event in New York and how it reflects Boucheron’s creative pillars?

We have created an immersive experience with five rooms that explore the pillars of Boucheron's identity. As Frédéric Boucheron was the son of a draper, the Heritage Room showcases how couture is an important theme in our archives. It also presents our 2024 Histoire de Style Power of Couture High Jewellery collection, highlighting this rich history and our craftsmanship.

Then the innovation room features two key elements. First, it presents our new High Jewellery Carte Blanche collection Or Bleu. Second, it offers a world preview of our new innovation capsule, Quatre 5D memory, which was officially launched at Place Vendôme on September 25th. The ring encapsulates the sound of waves thanks to a technology called 5D memory.

To continue this Quatre story, we dedicated a room to our jewellery icon: Quatre. This collection is celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2024. To tell its story, we were displaying Quatre's fine jewellery, jewellery and innovative creations.

Finally, the Jardin d'Hiver room pays tribute to our Parisian flagship on 26, Place Vendôme, where we have a real Jardin d’Hiver. In this location on the theme of Nature, we decided to showcase our emblematic Question Mark necklace alongside pieces from our Animaux de Collection.

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