Tackling Umm Suqeim Road on a Friday afternoon is an experience that can raise the heart rate. But turn off the highway at Al Barsha South and stagger into the garden of Maisan 15 with its foliage and fountains and all that anxiety disappears quicker than you can say ‘baba ganoush’.

If a restaurant reflects the personality of its head chef, then Rita Soueidan must be the most relaxed person in Dubai. Helped by her dedicated and loyal team of seven, the talented Lebanese chef infuses the food at Maisan 15 with numerous travel experiences, childhood memories, and a beguiling sense of tranquillity. 

“My team is so kind and calm, and that translates to the food and the customers,” smiles Soueidan. “If my team’s not happy, I think it shows in our food.”

Diminutive, personable and affable, it’s hard to imagine Soueidan shouting. The Dubai-born and -bred chef prefers to lead by kindness, understanding, and a gentle word in the ear. “There are moments when I get angry, of course, but I don’t like to yell,” she explains. “When I see chefs who lose their temper, it just doesn’t look right to me. It looks like someone who can’t control their emotions. I care about my team. I want them to learn and move up the ladder.”

Soueidan’s desire to educate her colleagues in the kitchen is something she received from her mother, who was a teacher and an artist. Her mother is also the person who ignited the chef’s love of food. 

“Food plays a very big role for the Lebanese. So, growing up, we spent a lot of time in the kitchen – I have lots of memories of that.” Is there one that springs to mind? “Rolling vine leaves,” grins Soueidan as she gazes off into the distance. “My mother was a good cook and I spent my childhood in the kitchen with her, asking questions and watching. From when I was very young, I was a big foodie and would try different cuisines. I ate everything. I always knew I would go on and do something with food.”

Growing up in a creative home, she felt encouraged to pursue her passion. Her grandmother was a ceramicist, her sister Nathalie is an illustrator and her other sister Ranya is a jewellery designer. 

“Creativity and using our hands runs in our family,” she says. Her father worked in a travel agency, so one of the perks of his job was that the family travelled extensively. All those foreign experiences have been fed into the eclectic menu at Maisan 15 that, if it had to be given a label, echoes the Middle East and North Africa. “I get bored easily, so I’m always experimenting with new dishes,” she says. “This place gives me creative freedom to play with ideas.”

However, having a head full of ideas can be draining. “It’s very difficult for me to switch off because I’m constantly feeling inspired,” she explains. “I need to remind myself to be more present, because I’m always thinking about the next dish I want to create.” 

Helping her cope with the rigours of leading a busy and successful restaurant is not an expensive therapist but an active WhatsApp group of about 80 head chefs in Dubai. “It’s amazing. We support each other, we share recipes, we help with suppliers, there’s no ego – it’s really nice,” she shares. “Being a head chef is high pressure. I’m on my feet for long hours and I have so many tabs open. I work a lot with myself spiritually, I read a lot of books and listen to podcasts, I do yoga and I meditate because this job is not easy.”

Another coping mechanism for Soueidan is the pleasure she gets from building a community through her work. Aided by the restaurant’s owner, Emirati artist Rami Farook, Maisan 15 displays art from young local artists and supports people of determination. For example, she gave cooking classes to an autistic young man and employed a waitress with autism and ADHD. “Rami and I want to give something back to the community, and I believe everybody deserves a chance at employment,” explains Soueidan. 

As well as community, Soueidan is similarly passionate about connection, something she feels is being forgotten. “Sometimes I watch the food arrive at the table and people are on their phones,” she sighs. “The food is getting cold because people want to take a photo. Food is about sharing, eating together, telling stories, connecting, but I see people in restaurants on the phone and not talking, and I think that’s sad. When people are on their phones, they’re not connecting with the food or tasting it properly. Food is an important part of human connection.”

With that piece of wisdom dispensed, Soueidan leaps up and dashes back to the kitchen to work on a new pasta dish with yoghurt, pickled fava beans, lentils and Merguez sausage. “It’s something I grew up eating,” she smiles. “Every dish has a story.”

Follow @chef_ritasoueidan