Inside Cindy Chao’s high jewellery art with her ethereal sense of design
Lola Koplin

Over the past 20 years, she has been sculpting a legacy
For Cindy Chao, jewellery is not just an accessory – it is art in its purest, most emotive form. Over the past two decades, she has redefined what high jewellery can be, creating wearable sculptures that challenge the conventions of design and craftsmanship. Her creations, celebrated by collectors and museums alike, are a testament to her relentless pursuit of innovation and her ability to transform nature, emotion, and architecture into eternal expressions of beauty.
Chao’s recent retrospective, Twenty Years in Art: A Retrospective Journey, was a celebration of her extraordinary career. Staged at the Fubon Art Museum in Taipei, the exhibition gathered nearly 30 of her most significant works, tracing her evolution across three creative epochs – Emergence, Taking Wing, and Artistic Mastery. It offered a rare glimpse into the mind of an artist who has spent two decades blurring the boundaries between art and adornment.

Chao’s unique artistry was forged through her heritage. With an architect for a grandfather and a sculptor as her father, she grew up immersed in a world where precision met imagination. Her grandfather’s blueprints and her father’s clay models taught her to view every line and curve as a language of expression. This duality of structure and soul lies at the heart of her designs, where intricate craftsmanship and organic vitality come together in perfect harmony.
Her pioneering use of wax sculpting – a technique dating back to the 18th century – has become a signature feature of her work. In an era dominated by digital design, Chao’s choice to sculpt each piece by hand is a bold statement.

This process allows her to capture the fluidity of nature, from the delicate flutter of a butterfly to the graceful curve of a branch. Each creation feels alive, imbued with movement and emotion – the handicraft at the heart of Chao’s designs is unmistakable.
The Black Label Masterpieces, her most iconic creations, encapsulate her artistic philosophy. These extraordinary pieces are as much about storytelling as they are about design. The Aurora Butterfly Brooch, for example, combines vibrant Burmese rubies and titanium to create a jewel that seems to hover weightlessly in space. This sense of ethereal motion reflects Chao’s mastery of both material and metaphor, transforming jewellery into an exploration of lightness and life.

Her signature approach to high jewellery design has also seen Chao’s aesthetic influence the larger community of jewellery makers. As the first Asian artist invited to teach at the prestigious Haute École de Joaillerie in Paris, she takes pride in sharing her vision and techniques with the next generation of jewellers. Chao’s approach encourages students to see jewellery as a dynamic dialogue between light, form, and emotion – it is a unique perspective that has revolutionised the way the craft is understood.
Cindy Chao’s jewellery is a clear meditation on the concept of eternity. Her pieces, with their meticulous details and breathtaking forms, are more than objects of beauty – they are timeless narratives.
Each design, whether a cascading necklace or a sculpted brooch, is a moment frozen in time – a reminder that great art transcends trends and endures beyond the present. In her hands, jewellery becomes a legacy, an offering to the future. With two decades of brilliance behind her, Cindy Chao continues to sculpt the extraordinary.
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