Presented inside the Chelsea College of Arts, Burberry closed the London Fashion Week runway with renewed perspective on the house’s signature codes. Under the creative direction of Daniel Lee, the collection gives new life to raincoats, trenches, and jackets through rich textures and vibrant colours. 

The presentation coincided with the house’s 170th anniversary, and rather than treating the house’s heritage as rigid boundaries, Lee dismantled it, bringing a lived-in charm to each piece. The first look reimagines the classic trench as a dress with a voluminous bubble hem and drop-shoulder sleeves. Similar design choices were seen across the collection, with Lee looking beyond trenches and coats for their utility, treating them as a canvas for a more romantic expression.

At the centre of the collection was Lee’s artistic collaboration with British textile artist Celia Birtwell, who turned the house’s checks into gingham, hand-painted stripes, and whimsical floral patterns. As the runway unfolded, skirts, dresses, and sheer trenches arrived encrusted in sequin embroideries and floral patterns alongside sweaters and tops featuring face graphics. 

The whimsical reimagination was still grounded through Lee’s integration of modern street culture. UK rapper Central Cee made his runway debut for Burberry, wearing slouchy denim paired with a blue and black hoodie, bridging heritage craftsmanship with modern street culture. With playful styling choices like floral jackets over sequin dresses, striped knitwear layered with tailored skirt suits, and contrasting prints layered over each other, the collection brought a more agile and spontaneous feel to the runway.

The runway closed with a cream jacket embroidered with yellow flowers paired with a matching clutch, tailored trousers and embellished shoes. By infusing the 170-year-old heritage with a familiar human touch, Daniel Lee breathes new life into Burberry, signalling the house’s position going forward.