This season, one of the most highly anticipated collections was Alessandro Michele’s debut for Valentino. Known for his maximalist style, Michele received largely positive reviews for blending his distinctive aesthetic with Valentino’s more refined, yet statement-making, house codes.

What particularly caught the eye of South Asians, however, were the tunics in the collection, which bore a striking resemblance to the kurta — a traditional South Asian garment that has become a global fashion staple.

As Phyllida Jay, anthropologist and author of Inspired by India: How India Transformed Global Design, notes, “What distinguishes a kurta from a tunic or a caftan? A kurta may seem like a simple tunic, but it’s far from it. Craft traditions radically alter its appearance, while variations in cut, fit, sleeve length, neckline, and skirt shape absorb international trends into local idioms.”

Mrunal Khimji, who owns the multi-brand store Mrunal’s Boutique, known for its selection of pieces that driven by the textile traditions of India in Muscat, Oman, and also runs her own eponymous label and craft-based atelier, blending South Asian and Middle Eastern textile heritage, believes the rise of kurtas in international collections lies in their fusion of art with commerce.

“Regions like the Middle East and Asia have a strong sense of style and luxury, and designers globally are finally appreciating Arab and Indian styles of dressing. They’re also recognising the significance of Arab and Indian shoppers. Accepting different cultures is highly relevant today, and we see many designers incorporating kurtas in their collections. It’s a form of inclusivity for many international designers,” she says.

A body-inclusive silhouette for all

The kurta is also one of the most body-inclusive silhouettes in the world. “The kurta is a very flattering silhouette on all body types and has been an intrinsic part of our culture and identity for generations,” says designer Anita Dongre, the first Indian designer to open a flagship store in Dubai Mall. “Clothing is emotional and nostalgic, connecting us to our heritage and roots. A classic white chikankari kurta for summer and a handwoven silk kurta for festivities are timeless must-haves in every wardrobe.”

Dating back to medieval times and evolving through Mughal India, the kurta remains a staple of Indian everyday wear, particularly in the north. Over the centuries, its length and fit have changed—sometimes short, sometimes long, loose or fitted—but its versatility endures, whether paired with salwars, churidars, or even jeans. As Khimji explains, “A kurta and a tunic are primarily distinguished by their length. A tunic is usually above the knees, while a kurta extends below. Though in India, a shorter kurta is often called a kurti.”

Dubai-based stylist Mukta Shahadpuri, who hosts pop-ups for South Asian designers, emphasises the kurta’s timeless appeal: “A kurta has always been key in any South Asian wardrobe because of its enduring versatility. It can be worn by the young and old, men and women alike, and can be dressed up or down.” Shahadpuri also highlights a modern fusion trend, with many South Asians pairing kurtas with co-ord sets for a fresh, contemporary look that she observed sold very well during the recent spate of Diwali pop-ups that took place in the Dubai

Dongre believes the kurta’s appeal is endless. “Our crafts, culture, and silhouettes have inspired international designers for decades. Our cultural legacy is so rich, diverse, and unique.” She adds that styles blending the kaftan and kurta are particularly popular in her Dubai store. “Both in India and the Middle East, the kurta is a natural fit, as modest fashion is deeply appreciated.” Khimji echoes this sentiment: “Kurtas are among the most popular garments we sell in our store, with styles to suit the needs of our clients, whether Asian, Middle Eastern, or international. Do remember its history spans not just India but Afghanistan, Persia, and Palestine too.”

For Diwali, Khimji suggests a classic kurta with subtle embellishments, styled with a churidar, salwar, or palazzo for an effortlessly elegant look. “Pair it with a simple Banarasi Bandhani or any handloom dupatta, and you simply can’t go wrong.”

Beyond Diwali Dressing

While the kurta is a festive staple for Diwali, its versatility makes it an investment piece that transcends occasions and geographies. Serial beauty entrepreneur and wellness expert Dr. Lamees Hamdan, founder of The Cosmic Doctor, swears by her collection of kurtas. “I have kurtas ranging from formal and embroidered to simple loungewear. My Good Earth and Fabindia sets are my most-used, while my pastel-hued Anita Dongre kurtas are perfect for family gatherings. A white cotton kurta is my exotic take on the basic white shirt — it’s comfortable, formal, and works with jeans or trousers.” A frequent traveller, she always has one in her suitcase as they work for every destination and every occasion.

The kurta’s appeal extends far beyond South Asia. As Shahadpuri notes, “Women in the Middle East have adopted the kurta for its modest, fluid silhouette. It’s comfortable during the hot months and versatile enough to double as a kaftan or even a beach cover-up.”

From Dubai to Diwali, the kurta continues to evolve as a timeless, globally relevant piece. Whether for festive wear or casual styling, it’s a wardrobe essential that transcends borders. -ends