Presenting Louis Vuitton’s Fall-Winter 2024 show in the Cour Carrée at the Louvre on the last day of Paris Fashion Week was layered in symbolism: not simply for its cultural status in the City of Light, nor as a preferred backdrop for Louis Vuitton’s shows, but because it’s where Nicolas Ghesquière presented his first collection for the brand exactly 10 years ago, on March 5^th, 2014. 

A decade on, the French-Belgian creative director took the opportunity to consider his journey in retrospect, using memory as his guide for creativity and imagination. What this means for the collection, is a hint of nostalgia through Ghesquière’s style codes that bear witness to a decade of fashion, whilst affirming the bold allure of the contemporary feminine silhouette all wrapped up in the seasonality of autumn/winter attire. 

For the Autumn/Winter collection, it’s all about charting the right course, following one’s own North Star – the curious traveller’s essential compass. In the case of Nicolas Ghesquière’s collection, the North Star ensures consistency of a stylistic vocabulary that he’s compiled over his 10-year tenure, with hints of earlier design affinities, well-suited imprints of beloved pieces, and an affection for a gesture, a cut or an embroidery. Familiar yet unique in more mature, modern iterations. 

In the same vein as his first show in 2014, Ghesquière left typewritten notes on the chairs of his 4,000 guests, which included Cate Blanchett, Ana de Armas, Gemma Chan and Sophie Turner. Saying “This joy is still here. Ten years later, this evening is a new dawn,” his words set the tone for what was sent down the catwalk and later the pieces finding their way into closets the world over – respect for the past, with a glimpse into the future. 

Referencing Ghesquière’s creative inception at Louis Vuitton, metallic prints, feathers and leather looks nod to his debut collection for the brand in 2014, while more fluid cuts and relaxed silhouettes speak to where we are in 2024, with sheer pieces, loose-fitting leather trousers, and chunky oversize knitwear demanding to be worn as the weather turns cooler. 

The collection’s futuristic and geometric cuts and prints are perhaps indicative of Ghesquière’s creative vision for Louis Vuitton moving forward, with a striking space-age palette of silver, icy blues and celestial golds splashed across frock coats, bubble skirts, paillette gowns and twinkling two-pieces. Bold and unexpected. 

Myriad pieces deserve a shout-out, such as layered dresses draped in cream, blue or fawn feathers, which are elegant and alluring in equal measure and have event season written all over them; a white-and-grey jacquard tracksuit and high-tech athleisure suiting that elevate casual wear as only LV can; cut-out dresses imprinted with Louis Vuitton’s luggage motif that speak volumes about the brand’s long-written roots in travel; and long tailored coats paired with voluminous ruffled skirts, for that perfect juxtaposition of structure and freedom that contemporary fashion oft requires. 

There are plenty of past and present nods on the accessories front, too. Avant-garde handbags styled like mini vintage trunks and bags with a vintage patina, to big, flamboyant fluffy mittens and beanie hats that came in both squishy leather and soft fabrics. 

Shoes that steal the show this season include the wear-everywhere high-shine lace-up brogues in monochrome, and ankle boots that run the colour spectrum from black to blue via shades of sunshine yellow and shocking pink. But if you’re going to invest in one new shoe for winter, make it the gold lamé ankle boots that will see you through every party from here to New Year. 

As shows go, Ghesquière’s Fall/Winter 2024 presentation in March was certainly a spectacle, whilst simultaneously devoid of any stereotypical fashion week gimmicks. Thankfully so too is the collection, making it infinitely wearable – whether taking the looks as a whole or throwing caution to the wind and embracing the versatility of its parts. And whilst celebrating his past and present at the French Maison, Ghesquière has also masterfully side-stepped being overly reminiscent, instead imbuing his nostalgia with a sense of fun, freedom and future self-expression. A measured design approach interweaved with playful optimism. Exactly what the world needs right now. 10 years and counting… Here’s to the next decade. 

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