As Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 gathers pace, the early runways are united by themes of contrast. The season favours designs that feel personal and move with the wearer. From Fendi to Brunello Cucinelli, here are our top runway shows from the week so far.

Fendi

Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri presents a collection that is centred around a more liberated kind of glamour. Using sheer layerings and fluid contrasts, she blurs the line between feminine and masculine dressing. Unconstrained by traditional gender codes, the silhouettes took centre stage in her designs, celebrating clothes as a tool for expression rather than constraint. 

Peserico

For SS27, Peserico’s “Tessuti Di Parole (Fabrics of Words)” is a masterclass in fabrics and textures. Organza led the collection through sheer, pleated, and iridescent forms, while poplin and metallic sheens added dimensions to shirts, biker jackets, and curved capes, and wide-leg trousers. Fluid silk, pyjama inspired silhouettes, sequins, and deliberately unruly raffia fringes balance the polished palette of begonia pink and Falun red, hydrangea blue, and clay green. Scarves run through the collection bringing contrast and shifting the balance of the silhouettes each time. 

Brunello Cucinelli

Brunello Cucinelli’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection “The Nature of Savoir-Faire” explores craftsmanship through a sense of ease, authenticity, and harmony between contrasting elements. From echoes of the Nordic seas and the refinement of a bygone era to a contemporary metropolitan attitude, the collection presented unexpected references and inspirations. Knitwear remains central to the collection, with hand-worked crochet, diagonal weaves inspired by Viennese canework, and lightweight mesh and honeycomb textures bringing an elevated sense of craftsmanship to everyday pieces. 

Etro

Etro delivered its signature bohemian romance for its SS27 collection through flowing silhouettes, fringe, and iridescent fabrications. The collection was centred around movement with a relaxed, expressive spirit translating the house’s heritage of texture and decorative richness into an easy, modern summer wardrobe. 

Missoni

Missoni carried its quintessential relaxed spontaneity in its SS27 collection, with each piece built around the idea of movement. The airy, open-work textures and soft colours gave the collection a breezy, sun-faded quality, while fluid dresses and relaxed co-ords blurred the line between resort and dailywear. The runway refreshed Missoni’s signature textile language through lightness and an easy, optimistic sense of summer. 

Jil Sander

Simone Belotti’s collection for Jil Sander finds sophistication in controlled imperfections through shirts slipped from the shoulder, jackets unevenly fastened, and crinkled textures. The approach did not abandon the precision the house is known for but rather made that precision feel human with intentional vulnerability. It brought an appealing looseness to the minimalist dressing style.