On Thursday, Paris Fashion Week gathered pace with an exciting lineup of designers presenting their seasonal collections. From Schiaparelli distilling their couture signatures to Roger Vivier’s house codes undergoing a metamorphosis, here are the standout runways from Day 4. 

Chloé 

The Chloé Summer 2027 show, titled “The Obsession”, began with delicate broderie anglaise inspired by the house’s archives, translated into airy organza and crisp cotton. Silhouettes were built from expressive heart, bateau, square and V-necklines, while three-dimensional floral embroidery added depth and texture. The runway then shifted toward 1970s-inspired fishermen’s coats, capes and sou’wester hats, layered with smoky transparent vinyl to create sharper, graphic shapes. 

The collection continued with the scalloped-edge 1972 “Noël” tuxedo, introducing a more tailored, masculine silhouette, before moving into lingerie-inspired pieces whose lace was transformed into romantic, barely-there harnesses. Across the show, the contrast between fragile lace, light organza, structured cotton, and glossy vinyl expressed Creative Director Chemena Kamali’s idea of Chloé archetypes.

Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, titled “Going Clear”, turned the house’s couture signatures into a more flexible ready-to-wear wardrobe. Signature gowns, necklines, and silhouettes were broken into separates. The restrained palette of black, bone, and butter yellow saw flashes of electric blue, soft pink, and moss green. Lettuce hems, asymmetrical openings, and leather and linen ruffles were inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s atelier curtains. 

Accessories continued the playful spirit with handbags featuring sculptural brass mouths, babouche-inspired flats, embellished heels and animal-shaped jewellery, while familiar keyhole and lip motifs appeared across shoes, bags and collars. 

Isabel Marant

Kim Bekker’s SS27 collection for Isabel Marant drew inspiration from Sam Haskin’s 1960s Los Angeles photographs. The collection began with board shorts, worn with crochet tops and sheer blouses. Early looks layered loose, sun-faded shirts under leather halter tops, while embroidered mini dresses in antique-looking linen were thrown over swimsuits and paired with statement earrings for an effortless, breezy vibe. 

As the runway progressed, the collection transformed into night with low-slung trousers styled with sheer tanks and cropped jackets and a fluid sequin mini dress layered over black capris with crochet hems, finished with a slouchy jacket. The overall silhouette language was relaxed yet sensual, with shorts and mini dresses contrasted with shirts, light jackets, and low-rise pants, all in faded florals, breezy linens, and knits designed to move as the models walked. 

Roger Vivier

Roger Vivier’s SS27 presentation at Paris Fashion Week, titled “Vivier en fleur”, unfolded as a contemporary reinterpretation of house codes. Creative director Gherardo Felloni created a shift in proportions and context to allow a renewed perspective to the familiar Vivier signatures. 

A new, colourful slingback on a spool heel drawn from the archive arrived in mustard suede and patent leather, while the Belle Vivier blossomed in embroidered denim, inviting preciousness into everyday wear. Across the collection, lace was incorporated into trainers, and the butterfly from the Pièce Unique couture gesture evolved into ready-to-wear across jewel bags, pointed mules, and slingbacks. 

Balenciaga

Balenciaga’s Summer 2027 show, titled Les Coraux de la Liberté, treated couture as both a creative method and an ideology. Under Pierpaolo Piccioli, familiar wardrobe staples like denim, shirts, T-shirts, bombers and leather jackets were reshaped through draping, forming, bias cutting and couture stitching. These techniques created new volumes, including basque shapes, while Calais lace cutouts opened structured windows onto the body. 

The collection balanced architectural construction with softness, ease and movement. Accessories followed the same handmade sensibility with Wave Thong Sandals, Dahlia Mules, unstructured Lounge Sneakers, supple Nodo and Silhou bags, braided Bow Mask sunglasses and natural, seashell-inspired Getaria jewellery. At the centre of the show, Aude Franjou’s wrapped-linen artwork Les Coraux de la Liberté reflected the collection’s dialogue between couture, craft and freedom.