Just as we go through periods of renewal, so does our skin. As a young beauty journalist in my late twenties, my skincare habits were, well, eclectic. I eagerly brought home products sent by manufacturers for testing, frequently changed what I used, and delighted in reporting first-hand experiences in the beauty section of the magazine I was leading at the time. 

My meticulously curated collection of jars, tubes, and pots eventually outgrew bathroom cabinets, let alone toiletry bags – it filled boxes. But for those who, like me back then, love cosmetics without limits, boundaries will eventually emerge. My skin reacted to the multiple products, as did that of my colleagues, who were also devoted to finding the most effective creams and serums.

Today, in my early forties, I am a true beauty essentialist, and this has less to do with professional experience and more with life experience. Like many women trying to balance family life, careers, and societal expectations, I want one thing above all – to own and care for less. Living with a minimal yet consistent repertoire of cosmetics means having more time and space. It’s liberating. But there are other compelling reasons to rethink skincare.

Life is Complicated Enough

It’s said we make around 20,000 decisions daily. Wouldn’t it be wonderful to eliminate some of them? Much like the “capsule wardrobe” concept – a selection of timeless, curated clothing pieces – the skinimalism movement focuses on consistency. 

Rather than trying every new skincare trend and amassing multiple products, the goal here is to use fewer but higher-quality products – and to stick with them. This benefits not only our mental state but also our skin.

“The idea that a cream can make wrinkles or blemishes disappear overnight belongs to the realm of fantasy,” emphasises dermatologist Dr. Juliane Habig. “However, cosmetics can visibly improve skin over time – if we allow them time to work.”

More Isn’t Always Better

The hype around ten-step skincare routines – a trend originating from South Korea – baffles dermatologists like Dr. Habig. “Layering multiple products, which may not even be compatible, exposes the skin to dozens of ingredients, potentially overwhelming it,” she explains. The result? An imbalance in pH levels and the skin’s microbiome makes it more susceptible to external stressors.

“Redness and breakouts, especially around the mouth and nose, are typical signs of over-treated skin,” Dr. Habig adds. In such cases, the only solution is to scale back and permanently simplify skincare habits. “Our skin regulates itself without much external help,” she notes. “Cleansing, moisturising, and sun protection are essential. Toners, serums, and eye creams can also be beneficial, depending on age. Everything else is generally unnecessary.”

Time and space: the luxuries of today

Skinimalism isn’t about having the shortest ingredient lists. Rather, it’s about focusing on efficient formulations. Contrary to popular belief, our skin can tolerate a single multitasking product – one that exfoliates, hydrates, and protects against free radicals – better than layering multiple single-purpose products. Using fewer, well-thought-out creams and serums saves time, space, and waste.

However, research is essential. “Understanding ingredients and your skin’s needs takes effort,” says Dr. Habig. “But it’s worth it in the long run.” 

She advises against harsh surfactants like laureth and lauryl sulphates, PEG emulsifiers, denatured alcohol, and fragrances, especially for sensitive skin. 

She also cautions against brands that don’t clearly list product compositions online. “If you can’t determine what’s in a product at the time of purchase, avoid it,” she shares. 

Strengthening Sensitive Skin

Minimalist skincare focuses on well-researched, effective ingredients like retinol, vitamin C, and AHA/BHA acids. However, these can still irritate sensitive skin. To make such active ingredients more tolerable, cosmetic manufacturers are developing sophisticated formulations.

For instance, Sisley’s Sensitive Skin Soothing Care uses plant-based, fragrance-free ingredients to address visible irritation (like redness, itching, and burning), as well as neurobiological causes. “Sensitive skin is not just about a weakened hydrolipid barrier,” explains Pauline Poussin, Sisley’s Scientific Communication Manager. “We now know hyperactive nerve fibres also play a role.”

Neurosensitive skin reacts to triggers like stress, chemicals, or temperature changes by releasing inflammatory messengers such as CGRP (Calcitonin Gene-Related Peptide). Sisley’s formula, featuring plum almond oil, shea butter, and Japanese lilyturf extract, reduces CGRP release and calms inflammation. This strengthens the skin barrier over a period of time.

As a result, active ingredients like firming or tone-correcting agents, which often irritate sensitive skin, can be reintegrated into daily skincare routines. For an ideal minimalist routine, see the tips provided on the right.