Umm Kulthum, the greatest Arab singer of the 20th century, left behind a legacy that, like no other, with a style that earned her a place among the ten most elegant women in the Arab world in the mid-1950s. 

Umm Kulthum's style was as powerful as her voice, seamlessly blending high fashion with modesty. For six decades the entire Arab world stood perfectly still on the first Thursday of every month as El Sett came on stage, delivering 4-hour concerts in haute couture, diamond sets, and her famous handkerchiefs.

The Seven Staples of Umm Kulthum's Signature Style

Exquisite Haute Couture

For her concerts, Umm Kulthum had her haute couture by Madame Vasso, the Armenian designer who lived and worked in Egypt. Her stage attire was a masterclass in rich embroidery and textured mid-century colour, with a sophisticated understanding of how colour could shape presence and emotion, creating the look based on the song and the performance. 

Her long-time tailor and designer, Madame Vasso, revealed that Umm Kulthum personally supervised the process, selecting the fabrics and embroidery for her concert dresses.

Vintage Headscarf

Umm Kulthum’s headscarf became another signature of her style, often paired with glamorous silk or chiffon scarves and oversized sunglasses. The combination became one of her most recognisable off-stage and travelling style signatures.

Tailored Suits 

Umm Kulthum provided us with a masterclass in wearing sharply tailored suits. Look for elevated, classic and timeless – this style is elegant. 

She favoured crisp, sharply tailored black and navy suits from Christian Dior and Chanel, often accented with pristine white silk collars.

Cat-Eye Black Glasses

When most of us hear the name of the legendary Umm Kulthum, an image of her in this iconic look, often seen during diplomatic visits, immediately comes to mind. The black cat-eyed sunglasses, embellished with diamonds and custom-made for her by Dior, wherever she went. 

Handkerchiefs

When we think of Umm Kulthum, one of the first images that comes to mind is the legendary singer standing on stage, tightly holding a handkerchief during each performance. Often made of silk or lace, the handkerchief was used to help manage her severe stage fright and sweaty palms before evolving into one of her most iconic visual signatures.

Statement Jewellery

Umm Kulthum loved jewellery of every shape, style and size. She had a stunning collection. She chose statement chandelier diamond earrings, but she was always really in love with pearls.

Signature Hairstyle

Umm Kulthum hair was always perfectly coiffed off her face into an immaculate, voluminous updo or her signature structural bouffant.