Chanel's Fall/Winter 2024/2025 Haute Couture collection marked a new chapter for the iconic fashion house. With the departure of creative director Virginie Viard, this collection was the first crafted entirely by Chanel’s design team, yet it retained the essence of Viard's sophisticated and feminine touch.

The collection was presented with an impressive backdrop designed by French director Christophe Honoré, who transformed the Opera Garnier into a cinematic stage. Models wove through the historic halls, their paths occasionally intersecting to create a mesmerising, cinematic experience. The setting was a nod to Chanel’s deep connection with the arts, particularly its long-standing support of the Paris Opera and Ballet The designs themselves were an exquisite blend of structure and whimsy. Costume-inspired pieces, including corsets, tutus, and capes, and showcased a playful yet refined aesthetic. 

Chanel’s historical ties to the Paris Opera were evident throughout the show. As a major patron of the Paris Opera since 2023 and a patron of the Paris Opera Ballet since 2021, Chanel’s influence on the world of dance was celebrated. Gabrielle Chanel’s legacy of designing costumes for ballets like Le Train Bleu and Apollon Musagète added depth to this narrative.

The climax of the show was the appearance of the Chanel bride, who took a solo turn around the venue. Her oversized white dress, adorned with puff sleeves, a jewelled floral bodice, and a flowing tulle train, evoked the poetry of a ballerina. This final look was also a nostalgic nod to the '80s, leaving the audience in satisfied and eager to see what Chanel’s future holds.

Chanel’s latest collection is more than a homage to its past; it is a bold declaration of its future. The debut collection without Viard has sparked significant conversation, making it one of the tentpole moments of couture week. As the fashion world speculates on what lies ahead, Chanel continues to captivate and inspire, blending its rich heritage with innovative design.

chanel.com