The fashion world has lost one of its greatest icons. Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani, who died peacefully in Rome at 93, was one of the last great couturiers of his generation. An artist, a storyteller, and a guardian of Italian craftsmanship, his designs transcended trends and decades.

From his earliest days, Valentino understood that clothes could carry meaning. They could empower, seduce, console and command attention. Over nearly five decades at the helm of his Maison, he built a universe that would leave a lasting legacy. As the fashion world mourns his loss, we look back at his iconic career.

Humble beginnings

Born in 1932 in Voghera, northern Italy, Valentino’s fascination with glamour began in childhood. The theatre and opera shaped his imagination, and were where his fascination with sequins, brocades and sweeping evening gowns began. At 17, he moved to Paris to study at the École des Beaux Arts and the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. He refined his craft training in the ateliers of Balenciaga, Jean Dessès and Guy Laroche, absorbing lessons in structure, technique and restraint.

In 1959, he returned to Rome and opened his first atelier on Via Condotti, a move that would position the Eternal City as a new stage for high fashion. The turning point came in 1960 when he met Giancarlo Giammetti. A trained architect, Giammetti became Valentino’s professional and personal partner, handling the business, strategy and infrastructure that allowed the designer’s creativity to flourish. Together, they transformed a startup brand into a global powerhouse.

In 1962, Valentino presented his first haute couture collection at Palazzo Pitti in Florence. The reaction was electric. Aristocrats, actresses and first ladies took notice, among them Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy. With one show, Valentino made his mark and redefined Italian elegance.

The Making of an Icon

Valentino Garavani remained at the helm of his brand until 2007. His vision was defined by a singular vision of femininity. His silhouettes were architectural yet fluid, his embroidery immaculate, his sense of proportion peerless. But above all, there was colour. One colour in particular…

Valentino Red was born before his first official show with the gown La Fiesta, a strapless red tulle dress presented in 1959. The shade later became so synonymous with the house that it earned its own Pantone reference. Legend holds that Valentino fell in love with the hue in Spain, captivated by its drama in flamenco costumes and Bizet’s Carmen. One of its most iconic moments was when the colour was immortalised in Pretty Woman, where Julia Roberts’s red Valentino gown became a cinematic symbol of romance and transformation.

His clientele read like a hall of fame. Jacqueline Kennedy wore Valentino throughout her life, including the iconic ivory dress for her wedding to Aristotle Onassis. Princess Diana, Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren, Anne Hathaway, Gwyneth Paltrow and countless others turned to him for moments that required gravitas, grace and spectacle.

Valentino rarely designed bespoke gowns, yet when he did, the results were unforgettable. Julia Roberts’s vintage 1992 Valentino gown at the 2001 Oscars remains one of the most celebrated red carpet looks in history. In 2012, he created a custom bridal gown for Anne Hathaway, a delicate, painterly masterpiece that felt both fairy tale and modern.

In 2008, Valentino held his final haute couture show as he handed the baton over to two trusted colleagues; Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaoli Piccioli. The show at the Musée Rodin in Paris was a wash of red, with every model wearing scarlet. Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer were among those who rose in a standing ovation. It was a bold sendoff for a man who had built an iconic brand and career.

A Lasting Legacy

While he was no longer hands-on at the brand, Garavani’s influence was still heavy at the Maison. His presence remained woven into the house’s identity. Every Valentino collection, whether under Piccioli or more recently, Alessandro Michele, carries echoes of his ethos.

His legacy is a rich philosophy. Beauty, in his view, was a form of respect for oneself and others. He believed in perfection. He championed Italian artisans, and he wanted women to embrace their confidence.  

Today, as the world mourns his passing, Valentino Garavani is remembered not just as a designer but as an icon who shaped our understanding of elegance. His red will never fade.